Blue LED Grow Light Vs Red LED Grow Light

Indoor plant gardens require adequate amounts of light to promote healthy growth processes within plant structures. And while sunlight may not be available in needed amounts, specially designed LED grow lights can simulate needed light energy for plant processes. When deciding between blue or red LEDs, the particular needs of the plant can help in determining which will work best.

Light Energy
Light in its most natural form comes from the sun. Sunlight contains the full balanced spectrum of energy wavelengths so crucial for maintaining life on Earth. According to the Gardener’s Supply Company, plant processes rely on the energy contained inside light to produce food and support the plant body. Different types of light produce various energy wavelengths that affect plant structures in different ways. LED lighting actually sits just below the visible light spectrum, so the energy contained inside LED wavelengths is thermal, or radiant energy.

LED Light
LED stands for light-emitting diode. This light-emitting feature refers to the degree of heat that radiates from an LED bulb, according to the Gardener’s Supply Company. This form of energy is made up of longer and slower wavelengths than those that form visible light. As a result, living cells actually absorb LED wavelengths, which has direct effects on cell metabolism processes. The use of red and blue lighting for indoor planting purposes combines the thermal effects of LED wavelengths with blue and red energy wavelengths.

Of all the colors contained inside the visible light spectrum, plants are most responsive to the energy contained inside red and blue wavelengths, according to the University of Missouri Extension. Both types of energy play vital roles within plant photosynthesis processes where light energy is absorbed and converted into carbohydrate materials. These carbohydrate materials are then converted into food for the plant. The metabolism processes involved in making plants strong and healthy rely on the energy contained inside blue and red light waves.

Blue Light
The wavelengths contained inside light are made up of photon energy particles. The energy contained inside blue LED light plays an essential role in stimulating and regulating seedling growth processes, according to the Plant Physiology Information website. Chlorophyll pigments contained on leaf surfaces are responsible for absorbing incoming light energy. These areas rely on the energy contained in blue light waves to create the chemical reactions that take place in photosynthesis. Blue light waves also promote the production of chlorophyll materials on leaf surfaces.

Red Light
According to the Gardener’s Supply Company, red LED light waves help to stimulate overall growth throughout the structure of a plant. When growing vegetative or flowering plants, red wavelengths help to stimulate fruit and flower growth processes. This form of energy is also beneficial in stimulating seed and bulb growth, though a balance of blue light is needed to properly regulate early growth processes. In general, both red and blue light waves are needed for the health and growth of plants, so balanced amounts of both provide an ideal environment for new and established plants.

What is Medicine Marijuana Hydroponics and How to Grow Weed with Hydroponics?

Growing medicine marijuana hydroponically means that you grow the plants in an inert, sterile growing medium instead of in soil. All of the plants’ nutrient requirements are supplied with the water mixed with nutrients. Plants are 80% to 95% water; the remaining parts are carbon, oxygen and hydrogen. Plants extract these elements from the air and from water so nutrients are actually a very small amount of the total weight of a plant. It is the plant’s entire atmosphere that needs to be controlled to produce perfect crops.

Medicine marijuana plants, and in fact all plants, do not need to be in a living soil, they require nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), potassium (K), calcium (Ca), magnesium (Mg) and sulfur (S). Those are the macroelements (the big ones) and the small elements known as microelements are iron (Fe), chlorine (Cl), manganese (Mn), boron (B), zinc (Zn), copper (Cu) and molybdenum (Mo).

On a side note molybdenum is a fantastic metal and creates some of the most impressively stain resistant and sharpest Japanese knives on earth.

Hydroponics introduces the water, nutrients and air to the roots through the mediums and as you bypass the web of roots and the energy required for the plant to acquire the nutrients you get faster growing plants.

Advantages of using hydroponics over soil to grow medicine marijuana are:

  • Cleaner;
  • Less space required;
  • Faster growing time, usually a crop is finished in 12 weeks;
  • More automation means less labour;
  • Avoidance of soil borne pests;
  • More control over the growing environment such as vegetative and flowering times;
  • Higher yields.

Disadvantages using hydroponics to grow medicine marijuana can be:

  • A higher initial set-up cost;
  • More skill and knowledge required with management usually on a daily basis unless you have a very professional set up – but we are here to help;
  • Easier for things to go wrong due to the technical side.

Hydroponic medicine marijuana set up

All growing described on this page is done using the Ebb and Flow system. The Ebb and Flow system is one of, if not the most popular hydroponic methods for growing weed. It is simple and easy to use.

It works like this: A reservoir containing nutrient solution is located below a growing tray. The tray contains the plants that are in containers with growing medium like Rockwool.

The growing bed is filled with nutrient solution by a small pump on a timer to feed and water the plants. The timer then shuts the pump off and the nutrient solution drains freely back into the reservoir.

Ebb and Flow systems’ are favored because of their low maintenance, high productivity, and ease of use. Ideal not only for the beginner, but for the advanced gardener as well.

If you would rather buy a unit rather than grab all the gear from the hardware store (they will know what you are making), it may cost a little more but all parts will be included and you will save time by getting everything at once. I got a 10 plant unit for $250 USD. You can probably find something just as good or better for less money on eBay.

Medicine marijuana lighting
Metal Halide (MH) or High Pressure Sodium (HPS) are the medicine marijuana lights to get for growing hydroponic medicine marijuana. Metal halide light is close to regular room light or cool fluorescent light (blue spectrum) and is best for vegetative (beginning) growth. While high pressure sodium is in the red end of the spectrum and is best for flowering (later) growth.

Expect to pay about $250 for a 250W HPS/MH digital ballast, bulb and reflector combo. Then there is the rest of the hydroponic medicine marijuana setup and everything else you will need to raise your crop hydroponically. You can spend more or less than that, but another $200 to $500 would cover it nicely. Once you get things set up you can continue to raise new crops with your set up and only have to spend money on nutrients, bulbs, and other maintenance.

After a few crops (you will make mistakes at the beginning), your product will be better (if the seeds you used were good) than anything that you would normally buy, at a fraction of the cost.

If you do things properly, you will get about one to two ounces of premium tops per medicine marijuana plant every three to four months. You won’t have to deal with people that you might not trust, and your stash will be clean and healthy as can be.

LED grow lights (light emitting diode) are the new breed and have scientists working around the clock to make them brighter and cheaper using the optimum spectrums. LED grow lights are already the coolest method of growing and they also last approximately six times longer than any HID grow light.

Medicine marijuana growing seeds or clones
If you know someone who grows, ask them for a few clones. If you don’t have access to clones you will have to get seeds. If you don’t already have some, you can ask you friends to save you seeds out of any good weed they may come across.

The better the weed that the seeds come from is, the better your crop will be. If the weed the seeds came from was no good, your crop will probably not be any better.

If you need seeds we totally recommend reading this cannabis seeds page.

Germinate the medicine marijuana seeds
Set up your hydroponic garden before you germinate the seeds. Make sure everything works fine. If you are using clones, skip this section.

The standard thing to do is use a Rockwool cube to start the seed on and surround it with whatever media you use. Keep the Rockwool cube so that the bottom 70% or so is submerged when the water is at max, but keep the top part above the water so that the seed is never submerged.

Another way to germinate seeds and more information, just follow the directions located here to germinate your cannabis seeds. After the seeds have germinated and the root is about a quarter of an inch long, place the seed, root down, on your grow cube or media that is in your hydroponic cups.

There are various types of media available to grow in. Rockwool is one, but there are many others. Media simply means the substance that the roots grow in. Since you aren’t using soil in a hydroponic garden, you need a substitute.

Vegetative medicine marijuana growth
The first phase of medicine marijuana growth is called the vegetative phase. If you plan on using the MH or HPS right away, start with the light about 20 inches or more above the top of the plant and lower the light an inch or so daily until you think the height is right. Too close and the plants will dry and turn brown. Too far and the plants grow too tall as they stretch to get closer to their light source. That is a waste of space. Start high and lower the light an inch or two daily until you think the height is right.

During the first stage of growth, the vegetative stage, keep the light on 16 to 24 hours a day minimum. The longer it is on, the faster the plants will grow, but the higher your electricity bill will be. More on medicine marijuana vegetative growth.

Medicine marijuana flowering
Flowering is the phase of medicine marijuana growth that produces the most THC (the active ingredient that produces the high). Once flowering begins, the height of the plants will taper off as the plant energy is used in the flowering process itself.

You can start flowering when the plants are a minimum of about 6 inches high and have at least 4 sets of leaves. This will take 2 weeks to a month of vegetative growth in most hydroponic gardens. When you want to start flowering, cut the light back to 12-13 hours a day.

The height of the plant will continue to increase for about two to four weeks after flowering has been started, after that all the plants energy will be used for flower production.

Limiting the height of a medicine marijuana plant has always been a difficult task for me, so I just raise the height of the light as the plant grows. There are methods of limiting the height of a plant, but none of them have worked for me, so I’m not going to recommend one, the medicine marijuana growers guide has the most comprehensive descriptions I have seen on limiting the height of weed.

The flowering cycle lasts about two months, sometimes a little longer, depending on the type of seed. So the total length of time to raise a crop should be 3 to 4 months in a hydroponic garden.

During flowering the dark period must be perfectly dark. No room light, sun light, or any other light should reach the plant in the 12 hours of darkness that the plant must get everyday. The strongest light that should reach the plant during flowering would equal that of moonlight.

Stronger light than this will delay flowering, and if it continues there is a chance that the plant will not flower, but stay in the vegetative phase.

This is more important in the first 6 weeks of flowering. When the plants have started to flower for over a month, small amounts of light for short periods of time are not as harmful.

You will know the plants are flowering when you see what look like little white hairs developing at bud sites. They should be visible after about two weeks of the flowering light cycle. These will eventually be the red hairs that you see on good bud that you have probably smoked in the past or are smoking now.

Plant foods are measured in an N-P-K format.

N is Nitrogen
P is Phosphorus
K is Potassium

A 15-15-15 solution contains 15% Nitrogen, 15% Phosphorus, 15% Potassium. A 20-10-5 solution contains 20% Nitrogen, 10% Phosphorus, 5% Potassium. The percentage of the solution not used by N-P-K is trace elements and inert material.

If you are buying hydroponic nutrient, get the powder kind that mixes with water. It is much cheaper over the long run when you compare it with already mixed solutions.

An all purpose hydroponic nutrient solution with secondary elements like calcium, sulphur and magnesium and trace elements boron, copper, molybdenum, zinc, iron, and manganese will get you through all stages of growth. But depending on the stage of growth, you can adjust different nutrient levels needed at different times to optimize growth. But depending on the stage of growth, you can adjust different nutrient levels needed at different times to optimize growth.

Higher amounts of N are needed when the temperature will be below 80 degrees in the grow room during vegetative growth. 20-20-20, or 23-19-17, or 12-6-6, or something similar, with trace elements should do it.

If temperatures are higher than 80 degrees in the grow room, you need not worry about more N in the formula during vegetative growth.

During flowering the plant needs lots of P, regardless of temperature. 15-30-15, or 5-20-10, or 2-4-3, or something similar, with trace elements should do it.

Do not over fertilize your plants. Too much fertilizer will kill your plants. If you under fertilize, plants will take longer to grow but will not die. Follow the mixing instructions on your hydroponic solution package, if you aren’t sure, use less rather than more.

As water evaporates an is absorbed by the plants, your water reservoir level will drop. Add tap water that has been aged 3 days or longer to the reservoir. I don’t add nutrient solution when I top up the tank, some people do.

Change the nutrient solution every 2 weeks. That is, discard the old solution and clean out the reservoir, pumps, and other equipment that is used with HOT WATER. After cleaning, add tap water that has been aged 3 days or longer to the reservoir then add nutrient solution. You only need to clean the cups and tubing the plants are in before you start a new crop.

The old solution that you are discarding can be used to water house or garden plants. This will at least double the growth rate if you usually water your plants with regular tap water.

Medicine marijuana nutrient cycle
The timer that starts to pump the nutrient solution should turn on and the solution should submerge the plants roots every twenty minutes. As soon as the roots are submerged, the pump can shut down.

If it takes longer than 20 minutes for the roots to get water, the roots will usually grow long, and they can grow very long looking for the nutrient solution source.

In fact they can grow so long and thick that they prevent the solution from reaching all the way up your grow cups. This will also raise the chance of root material being ripped out and clogging the system. Once the flow is clogged by root or other material inside, you will have to take the garden apart and clean it.

Check the root length every few weeks. If it is hard to remove the cups the plants are in because the roots are anchored to the internal channel, the roots are too long. The root should be short enough to not touch the narrow point where the solution enters the cup holder. If they are too long, trim them down with scissors. Make sure they are not going too far, but don’t cut unnecessarily.

Eliminating smell
Growing (and smoking) medicine marijuana will produce odors. Sometimes they can be strong enough to attract attention. If you would like to eliminate the smell from growing and/or smoking medicine marijuana the best thing to do is build an ozone generator.

Storing medicine marijuana
If your weed is going to be stored for more than a year it should be wrapped in an air tight container and be stored somewhere that is dark and cool. A freezer is best, but a fridge, basement, closet, or something similar will do. Dry it first if you grow your own, or if the stuff you have is very moist. And remember that light, air and heat are the things to avoid.

All About Light Bulbs

Even a compact fluorescent light bulb that burns out prematurely uses less electricity while you use it — but you may or may not break even. The environmental advantage of a compact fluorescent bulb also depends on its lifetime, because incandescent light bulbs require fewer resources and electricity to manufacture. We found loads of statistics estimating the environmental savings of switching to compact fluorescent light bulbs, but again — it depends on your situation and your care in selecting and using the bulbs. Here are some things experts say to consider:

Bulb lifetimes are only an average, and only under ideal conditions. There’s been a lot of complaints that compact fluorescent light bulbs don’t last nearly as long as they’re supposed to. Indeed, the majority of comments we read were from people who expected them to last longer. Light bulb hour ratings are an average. So if a bulb’s rating is 10,000 hours, that means that in lab tests half of the bulbs lasted longer than 10,000 hours, while half didn’t last that long. Still, with incandescent bulbs rated for about 1,000 hours, even CFL bulbs that last only half as long as they’re supposed to result in a savings, particularly now that CFL bulbs have come down so much in price.

CFLs can save you money. You’ll probably save some money by switching to good compact fluorescent light bulbs, as long as you use them in the right fixtures, keep them on for at least 15 minutes at a time and exchange any defective bulbs without paying return shipping. So it’s reasonable to switch from incandescent light bulbs now, before their mandated phaseout in 2012. For use with dimmer switches, new energy-saving halogen light fixtures are a better bet, though dimmable CFL bulbs are now available.

LED light bulbs could be the future. Experts agree that LED light bulbs will be superior to compact fluorescent light bulbs in many ways — eventually. For now, they’re worth considering for certain purposes, but they are too expensive and dim for most settings.

Pay attention to color temperature. Except for halogen light bulbs, whose light is usually white, each type of light bulb is available in various color temperatures, usually specified in degrees Kelvin (K). Most light bulbs range from a warm 2,700K through various steps of cooler, bluer, to a very bluish-white 5,000K, often called full spectrum.

Look for lumens, not wattage. Because the amount of light produced per watt by the different light bulb technologies now available, new packaging regulations that will soon go into effect will require bulbs to carry their lumen rating, which is a measure of light output.

Consider the warranty. Light bulb warranties are usually specified in hours or years, but retailers and manufacturers vary a great deal in how they handle warranty claims. As many owner-written reviews testify, a light bulb warranty doesn’t help much if the company requires you to pay shipping to return defective bulbs. Retailers may or may not accept returns. Also, many light bulbs are designed for specific kinds of light fixtures, and using them with a dimmer switch, with an enclosed or recessed fixture or in a damp setting — even with the same medium-base screw-in socket — may void the warranty.

Starting time isn’t the same as run-up time. Compact fluorescent light bulbs must start within one second to earn Energy Star certification, but may still take up to 30 seconds or so to attain full brightness. LED, halogen and incandescent light bulbs start so fast that the delay is imperceptible. While you are first getting used to compact fluorescent light bulbs, the delays can be disconcerting. Reviews warn that in a few situations the delays can be dangerous — for example, if you depend on instant light for safety on stairs.

Most dimmer switches are designed for use with incandescent light bulbs. Reviews warn that even when labeled “usable with dimmers,” it’s possible that a compact fluorescent light bulb won’t work with your dimmer switch. The same is true of three-way light fixtures: A three-way compact fluorescent light bulb may or may not work. Your best bet is to replace incandescent light bulbs first in ordinary light fixtures that get plenty of airflow and that stay on for hours at a time. Both heat and cycling on and off often can drastically shorten the lifetime of compact fluorescent light bulbs.

Light bulbs and other health concerns

Full-spectrum lighting isn’t the only health concern that various experts have raised about light bulbs. Other concerns include electromagnetic fields (EMFs) and the possible release of toxic chemicals, including mercury, if a compact fluorescent light bulb is broken. We found some studies of both risks. UV light is of less concern, because reviews say that light bulbs emit relatively little UV light compared with sunshine.

Although there’s evidence that exposure to electromagnetic fields is hazardous for children — with a connection to leukemia rates — it’s not clear whether or not EMFs pose a problem for adults. Apparently some people are more sensitive to such fields than others; if you’ve ever gotten a headache from one or more light fixtures or bulbs, you’re apt to be one of them. Incandescent light bulbs don’t emit a high electromagnetic field, but some compact fluorescent light bulbs do — certainly the ones that use an iron-core electromagnetic ballast. If EMFs are a concern, select a bulb with a solid-state electronic ballast.

In addition to mercury, fluorescent light bulbs contain other toxic materials. Most contain cadmium, lead, hexavalent chromium and polybrominated biphenyls. Hence, reviews say it’s a good idea to familiarize yourself with the safest cleanup procedure when buying compact fluorescents (or any fluorescent light bulb, for that matter).

Of course, disposing of unbroken defective or used fluorescent light bulbs is a major environmental concern. A few localities have ample recycling facilities in place, but proper disposal of hazardous light bulbs is still a real problem in many areas. You can find links to information about how to properly dispose of CFLs in the Useful Links section of this report.

LED light bulbs contain no mercury, and they offer other advantages over compact fluorescent light bulbs. LED light bulbs turn on instantly, last much longer and are more energy efficient. Their lifetime isn’t affected by frequent cycling on and off, so they’re especially suitable for light fixtures that don’t stay on very long — or conversely, for light fixtures that stay on so long that the extra energy efficiency is significant. LED light bulbs are also less apt to break.

LED Grow Light Coverage

Coverage area varies widely depending upon many factors:

wattage of individual diodes
shape of the grow light
degree angle of the diodes
overall wattage of the light
intended usage
. . . the list goes on

Of all of the reasons coverage is affected, the most important is its intended usage. You see, many manufacturers publish coverage areas based on the vegetative stage. This is a very important point. When plants are in the vegetative stage, they need less intense lighting than in the flowering stage. As cannabis growers already know, getting plants successfully through the vegetative stage with LED grow lights is pretty straight forward at this point. It gets tricky when bringing your plants through the flowering stage successfully due partly to the fact that some lights are just not up to the challenge. More importantly manufacturers are eager to show clients a huge savings in electricity (thus justifying the higher entry cost) stating a 90W LED grow light can support a gardening space of 4’x4′.

Let me be blunt here – a 90W LED grow light can support a 4’x4′ footprint but only during the vegetative growth of plants like lettuce, herbs, and some fruits and vegetables. If that is what you are wanting to grow then you will do just fine. For those of you growing cannabis, coverage expectations need to be put in check.

Picture Show The Most Important Wavelength of Light

Chlorophyll a, the most important light-absorbing pigment in plants, does not absorb light in the green part of the spectrum.

So as you can see:
Make up of an ideal led panel:
2% UVB Leds for resin and tric production. 380mn
6% Royal Blue Leds 455mn
12% Blue Leds 470mn
30% Red Leds 627mn
50% Far Red leds 660mn

Sunlight contains 4% ultraviolet radiation, 52% infrared radiation and 44% visible light.
I would stay away from amber leds I have seen I studies that show an increase in hermaphrodites.
I will go into Chlorophyll b when I can find the graphic again.

Welcome to custom made your led grow light from, customized items with color spectrum optional: Red: 660nm + 630nm, Blue: 475nm + 430nm, Orange: 615nm, White: 4500k, IR, UV.

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